Malika Parbat (First Pakistani-Danish Mountaineering Expedition)

By Imran Junaidi, Vice President (Expedition) Pakistan Alpine Institute


Malika Parbat is the highest mountain of the Hazara Division, Kaghan Valley. Situated in the Himalayan range in the Khyber Pakhtunkwa  Province, Pakistan. Jens and I visited Batakundi, Kaghan a couple of months before and I had also visited the same place the year before for training and evaluation of the snow conditions. These reconnaissance  trips were very important, for with them we were able to lay the groundwork for our future ascent. Although, available literature confirms previous ascents at Malika Parbat (North) in the year 1920 and 1967 no details of their routes are available.My expedition partner Jens J. Simonsen, arrived from Denmark in 3rd week of July, 2012. Our Jeep dropped us Batakundi, Kaghan. Later on, four locals including Naseer, Manzoor, Hanif and Raouf joined us to carry our stuff.After 5 hours trekking, we established base camp at Dadar (10500 feet). Next morning, a donkey joined the team and after an exertion of five to six hours ABC established (almost 13500 feet).

Malika Parbat Base Camp

Malika Parbat Base Camp 10500 FEET

Porters with Donkey at Malika Parbat ABC

Porters with Donkey at Malika Parbat ABC 13500 FEET


Our guide Naseer warned for steep and unfavorable snow conditions, possibility of land slides, loose rocks, hanging glaciers and avalanches. He also showed his faith in fairy tales alleging the presence of super natural beings.

The day before the ascent we had heavy rains and we saw a few rock falls. Fortunately we saw no avalanches.

“Imran! Weather is clear”, This was the happy morning message of the next day.  However due to the late clearing of the weather we only managed to start climbing at 8 am. We were roped up at 8 am and walked one and a half hour at mixed route. Then after, it was a ramp of compressed snow that we had to climb. After climbing few rope lengths, we could view Lake Saif-ul-Malook from the base of the north ridge. Two humps of hanging snow (cornices)  blocked the access to the ridge so we decided to traverse few meters below to the first cornice. We had to use four point climbing  As the snow was 70-75 degrees steep.

Happy Start of the Summit Day

Happy Start of the Summit Day

First View of Lake Saif ul Malook

First View of Lake Saif ul Malook

Ridge of Malika Parbat with Cornice

Ridge of Malika Parbat with Cornice

Climbing two rope lengths took us to the centre of the two hanging cornices. Once again, Lake Saif-ul-Malook could be seen. The ridge was inclined toward the lake and after few yards there was a sudden drop. The only possible option was to use ridge to climb further although the presence of the cornice was quite spooky . Jens proposed to climb through the cornice and I reluctantly agreed.After a climb of one rope length, we reached to the beginning of the glacier having quite  steep patches.. A negotiation with mixed climbing rocky, snowy and icy patches made it possible to reached to the summit of Malika Parbat (North) at 4:30 pm on 27th July, 2012.We could see other Malika Parbat peak as well but, attempt was out of question as we could not spare few hours to climb further.

Jens J. Simenson at the summit of Malika Parbat (North) 5222 meters

Jens J. Simenson at the summit of Malika Parbat (North) 5222 meters (Dadar View)

Imran Junaidi at the Summit of Malika Parbat (North) 5222 meters (Kashmir View)

Route for the Malika Parbat (North)

      “A Hard Day’s Work” is name of the route


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